In spite of their similarities in colour, No. 5 and No. 6 are worlds apart. Whereas No. 5 is earthy and full-bodied, No. 6 is lighter, fresher with a citrussy top-end. It's this characteristic zing that lets it cut through lamb like, well, butter.
But lamb in all of its fatty, umami-rich livery is one segment of the flavour wheel. It just so happens that No. 6 — Garlic, Rosemary & Mint can cater to a variety of others.
The natural choice, and the one we talk about until the cows come home, is green veg; garden peas, savoy cabbage, spring greens. Even brassica vegetables like broccoli and cauliflower. They all benefit from base herbaceousness, the middle florality of rosemary, and sweet, delicate mint at the very top. We'd like to think you can imagine such a thing now. Take a moment.
But what we would really like to shine a light on today are new potatoes. Generally, they're slightly waxier than their roastie brethren, less floury, designed for bite and retention of form. But alas, so often unloved. How many of us have sported a batch of these unsung heroes without so much as a pinch of salt? They're the potato equivalent of cottage cheese; chosen for their neutrality, their smaller caloric footprint, but basically unenjoyable.
Well. No longer. Begone side dish neglect!
New potatoes can be more. They can be everything. And all it takes is No. 6.
For those eager to learn, new potatoes are literally teenie tiny versions of regular sized potato varieties. While they do indeed err on the side of waxy, there are also some — like mini Maris Pipers — that still have a floury quality about them. For our personal preference, both Jersey Royals and Rattes sit somewhere in between, making them both a hybrid and, as the name of the former might suggest, potato royalty.
For those short on time, attention and inclination, simply boil some Charlottes, Rattes or Jersey Royals for about 10 minutes until fork tender. Drain, leave to cool ever so slightly, and then add to a serving bowl. Grace the almost-hot potatoes with a quarter roll of No. 6 and give the affair a good rifling. Serve these now and be changed; out of nothing, something.
If you would like to amplify the situation, it would be remiss not to mention 'the Maillard reaction'; the cheffy term for browning. This is one molecular change that we so often take for granted; it transforms the amino acids associated with a given foodstuff, adds subtle bite, and jettisons new potatoes to a totally different place. For this writer, simply foregoing the boiling process and storing some baby Maris Pipers in a hot oven for 45 minutes is enough to create a demonically delicious new potato / roast potato lovechild. Add your No. 6 at the end, give them a good shuffle, and away you go. Or, for the daring, roast them with the butter. It's what we do at shows, and it generates quite the crowd. Serve with salmon; serve with steak; serve with eggs for breakfast, or eat cold from the fridge after a diabolical night out, slightly ashamed but slightly defiant.
This point is only somewhat unserious. For what is a potato salad, but cold, forgotten potatoes reimagined. Take your leftover No. 6 potatoes — boiled or roasted — and top them in 1:1 mayonnaise and creme fraîche. No quantities are mentioned as some like a wetter potato salad. Add a teaspoon of good Dijon mustard, a whisper of white wine vinegar, salt, pepper, and some finely chopped chives. Weave the thing together. There you have it. And thanks to the subtle artefacts of No. 6 left behind from the initial plating, you'll find a gentle minty aroma shines through for a festival of flavour, risen like a phoenix from the ashes. And let's face it, they'd probably end up in the bin otherwise.
Who'd have thought we could wax so lyrical about such a base ingredient? Well, dearest readers, you haven't seen anything yet.
As it happens, this is only the first of an ongoing series of editorials on the subject of unloved ingredients and easy culinary successes. It's so very new, we don't have a name for it yet. For the clever butter lover who submits the chosen title for this series, there's a whole case of No. 6 with your name on it. Reach out at hello@sublimebutter.com.
Good luck and Godspeed.
Team Sublime